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Matching dowel to drill bit
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Hairyloon



Joined: 20 Nov 2008
Posts: 15425
Location: Today I are mostly being in Yorkshire.
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 15 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Nick wrote:
Soak the dowels if they're too thin.

That'll only work 'till they dry out.
Could soak them in something like anti-freeze...

Nick



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 34535
Location: Hereford
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 15 8:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Hairyloon wrote:
Nick wrote:
Soak the dowels if they're too thin.

That'll only work 'till they dry out.
Could soak them in something like anti-freeze...


Plenty of glue will work long enough for him to have forgotten who suggested it.

mousjoos



Joined: 05 Jun 2006
Posts: 1986
Location: VERY Sunny SW France
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 15 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

tahir wrote:
mousjoos wrote:
Are you using ordinary drill bits or "lip & spur" bits...the latter are for drill holes for dowels


Hmm, got me there what's the difference?


the centre of lip & spur bits are pointed, so are the leading edges that cut the surface of the timber....ie the outer circumference of the bit defines the hole to be drilled, & the centre being pointed doesn't slip as much as an ordinary HSS bit would

not a very good explanation but Google it for more detail

soaking the dowels doesn't work btw

eta too much glue actually makes joints weaker

mark



Joined: 14 Jul 2005
Posts: 2191
Location: Leeds
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 15 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

it is likely the dowels are in tolerance and the holes are too big..

Obviously you need to use the right bit and ensure it is securely mounted - and straight.
But even then the same bit will drill different sized holes in different materials (chipboard, softwood , hardwood etc) and when drilled in different orientation to grain etc.

Always best to drill practise holes in scrap

are you using pieces cut off dowel rods or ready made dowels that are often champhered to make insertion easier?

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45374
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 15 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

if the fit is good the dowel will need a groove if using glue to allow any excess to escape

i recon half a mil less on the drill compared to the dowel for softwood/composite and same size in hardwoods

a doweling jig will help to line up holes and will also keep them strait and accurately sized

the comments re pointy drills are worth adopting as clean and tidy holes will make for a better fit

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45374
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 15 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

ps if the holes are too tight and the wood is of a splity nature the dowel can pop the wood as the moisture levels change due to the environment

vegplot



Joined: 19 Apr 2007
Posts: 21301
Location: Bethesda, Gwynedd
PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 15 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

You can also crimp the end of the dowel using a pair of pliers. This may compress the wood enough to get a good fit into the hole. If the dowel is unfluted it will also be stronger due to the greater glue surface area.

tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45389
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 15 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

mark wrote:
are you using pieces cut off dowel rods or ready made dowels that are often champhered to make insertion easier?


Ready made

tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45389
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 15 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

dpack wrote:
ps if the holes are too tight and the wood is of a splity nature the dowel can pop the wood as the moisture levels change due to the environment


Some of them are into the end grain of ply, too tight obviously causes splits.

Have ordered a 7.5mm hopefully that will work

Bodrighy



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 2157
Location: Near Devizes
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 15 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

If you are only talking about .5mm why not just sand the dowel down?

Pete

tahir



Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 45389
Location: Essex
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 15 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Bodrighy wrote:
If you are only talking about .5mm why not just sand the dowel down?

Pete


Cos there's a lot of em, I think 80 odd that I need to do and I've moved onto other parts of the job so can wait

Bodrighy



Joined: 15 Aug 2008
Posts: 2157
Location: Near Devizes
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 15 9:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

tahir wrote:
Bodrighy wrote:
If you are only talking about .5mm why not just sand the dowel down?

Pete


Cos there's a lot of em, I think 80 odd that I need to do and I've moved onto other parts of the job so can wait


Fair enough.

Pete

gregotyn



Joined: 24 Jun 2010
Posts: 2201
Location: Llanfyllin area
PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 15 3:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I haven't read all the replies, but I make my own dowels by hammering, with a mallet, a loosely rounded piece of wood using a coarse surform, through metal with a hole drilled in to the size I want, the sides of the hole acting as the trim for the dowel. This gives me a length of dowelling which I simply cut to length, they are not perfect, but they work and are usually,near enough. If it is a job in the town then you hammer slower and keep checking and only use the best. I always cut it out of otherwise unused offcuts, and so the cost to make what size I want is nil, bar time.

Mistress Rose



Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15539

PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 15 8:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

That is the way peg for rake ends are made in green woodworking Gregotyn. You can buy tubes of various sizes to make them.

boisdevie1



Joined: 11 Aug 2006
Posts: 3897
Location: Lancaster
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 15 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Another handy tip. Use a pencil sharpener to shave a bit of the end of the dowel. Makes it easier to get in.

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