|
|
Author |
|
Message | |
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 45510 Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: 7380 Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 45510 Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
Slim
Joined: 05 Mar 2006 Posts: 6540 Location: New England (In the US of A)
|
|
|
|
|
Mistress Rose
Joined: 21 Jul 2011 Posts: 15598
|
|
|
|
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: 7380 Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
|
Slim
Joined: 05 Mar 2006 Posts: 6540 Location: New England (In the US of A)
|
Posted: Tue Mar 19, 19 10:55 am Post subject: |
|
Sgt colon I would steer clear of any from briquettes, but wood ash from lump charcoal can be useful. But primarily as a way to raise pH and to add some nutrients like calcium and potassium. Avoid it if your soil pH is already above, say, 6.8 as it can go too far in the basic direction unlike lime.
I think that MR was speaking more to charcoal, which many people talk about as ā€¯biochar".
My quick bit on biochar it's that it's probably most useful in tropical soils, or specifically as a means to sequester carbon, but bony soils in our regions may benefit. It's also has some liming, but I think much less than ash. A big addition of pulverised charcoal may lock up nitrogen at first, so it's advisable to "charge" the charcoal before using it if possible (some people add it to compost, pee on it, etc). If you have healthy organic matter and a good pH range in your soil already you likely won't see huge advantages from charcoal, but you also won't likely see big problems (minus the potential lock up if nitrogen). |
|
|
|
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: 7380 Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
|
Mistress Rose
Joined: 21 Jul 2011 Posts: 15598
|
Posted: Wed Mar 20, 19 7:17 am Post subject: |
|
I would agree with that take on charcoal Slim. It is always best to soak it in a natural fertilizer mix, use it on the compost heap, or otherwise, as you say, 'charge' it. I totally agree with you about briquettes, or any charcoal that has been treated in any way. In the UK, British charcoal from an artisan supplier is best as it will be pure charcoal with no additives; most imported charcoal has some additives to stabilise it physically for transport, to stop it burning during transport and then often something added to get the stuff to burn for use.
I may be wrong about nettles having potash; I think I meant phosphate. Wood ash is ideal for high potash, but keep the ash dry until you need it, then it is best as a top dressing watered in for things like tomatoes. |
|
|
|
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: 7380 Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 45510 Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
Mistress Rose
Joined: 21 Jul 2011 Posts: 15598
|
|
|
|
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: 7380 Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
|
dpack
Joined: 02 Jul 2005 Posts: 45510 Location: yes
|
|
|
|
|
sgt.colon
Joined: 27 Jul 2009 Posts: 7380 Location: Just south of north.
|
|
|
|
|
|