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derbyshiredowser



Joined: 11 Feb 2007
Posts: 980
Location: derbyshire
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 20 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

jema wrote:


Won't the oak grow though and distort things?

.


These are the ones used on tree house masters I don't know if you could get something purchased or made over here

https://www.nelsontreehouse.com/blog/2017/2/21/hardware-highlight-tab

Slim



Joined: 05 Mar 2006
Posts: 6533
Location: New England (In the US of A)
PostPosted: Sun Jun 21, 20 11:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I used to sell Xmas trees in NYC with one of those treehouse guys

Mistress Rose



Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15539

PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Poor tree with all that hardware in it. Are those planters back to back and if so can you get to the back of both easily?

Afraid I have nothing to input to the other problem, as no experience of that sort of land. It does look as if your land was built up above the marsh, so trying to find how deep a firm base is would be useful, but could be a long way down.

jema
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28098
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Mistress Rose wrote:
Poor tree with all that hardware in it. Are those planters back to back and if so can you get to the back of both easily?

Afraid I have nothing to input to the other problem, as no experience of that sort of land. It does look as if your land was built up above the marsh, so trying to find how deep a firm base is would be useful, but could be a long way down.


It's a badly angled shot of new planters, tall ones in front of low ones. As such you cannot see the path between. Another row is planned behind those. But held up behind letting Sean build a composting setup.

As my tea brewed this morning I glanced at the deck with the sun in my eyes and thought "who's bunged one of my new sleepers on the deck" took me a moment to realise I was seeing the fence post that had totally rotted away at the bottom.
That is a message in its own right. The posts used for the fence are not far off sleeper size, bigger than any post I normally use, and still the lifespan in such a spot is limited.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45374
Location: yes
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 8:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

i wonder if you could get a small piling rig down there?
piles are good in a civils sense
a deep narrow hole, a few bits of metal, shuttering, poured concrete, a wobble and you have stability and a pad to mount a fence and deck(or the shard) upon
nice if it needs it. it probably does not.
it could be done

when you find the boundary line and floor, tis time to poke holes along the edge to see what it is made of

the slope is steep but looks fairly stable going by random posts that are not skiing downhill and the oak looks very stable, that is good
i would mean you only need to stabilize the edge of the property to stop your bit sliding onto that slope to the marsh

a bit like avalanches if different layers are on a slope upper ones can slide at low friction junctions

i have lived on good and bad slopes(and seen and fixed bad ones), the lower part of this from house level to marsh looks basically good but the original garden creation was less than perfect in stability.
i suspect they levelled to give a "platform" style landscape over the original natural slope using earth from the foundation trenches, maybe topsoil, bits of whatever was knocking about etc

poke and tell ain't just for the tabloids

im on a roll this morning:lol:

ps it looks better than i had expected from seeing it from above

jema
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28098
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    








The middle pic shows a very steep drop off.
Will try and learn about piles
Mostly concerned about shoring things up. I'm telling myself that all I am doing at the moment is exposing the erosion that was happening anyway.

jema
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28098
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Another observation is that standing on the deck, I catch glimpses of the main marsh level which I would place at 2m down if not a bit more. That starts to make sense as I reckon the flood level rises by at least 1m without effecting the garden and the visible base of the garden is approaching 1m down from that deck level.
For that math to work it really has to be a good 2m.

jema
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28098
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I'm starting to wonder about a bit of a cop out.

Plainly the fencing needs to go.

But beyond that the only obligation/need is to tidy things and not do stuff that undermines. We do not need another big deck.

So why not call the trenched triangle the boundary with sleepers as a simple retainer top side and bottom side retained by stakes that would be a bit more heavy duty than I have been using. Pile some earth down onto the deck and let nature take its course?

With the fences gone and no new serious structures in they way I can progressively repair add more material and retain in a manner where the fact it won't last is not that important.

Not sure if that sounds sensible?, mad? or a cop out?

What I do think is that if I deck, it's looking like major engineering to try and avoid a repeat of the current deck.

If I do the removing the fence, and simple staking/retaining add stuff, then nothing awful is going to happen and I would have a year to consider doing something more substantial.

derbyshiredowser



Joined: 11 Feb 2007
Posts: 980
Location: derbyshire
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 7:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I needed to build a retaining wall at the bottom of the garden down to a stream so I made it by driving in some galvanised scaffolding poles and then putting some sections of old telegraph poles against the scaffold poles to hold back the earth. Still working as the galvanising and pressure treated poles haven't rotted touch wood. Use your sleepers instead of the poles.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45374
Location: yes
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

carp gone and no cows in your salad seems a good place to pause in the civils,
wait look and then decide, there is gardening and a gentle summer to be done

jema
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28098
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

I recall thinking about scaffold poles years ago, but read they had a pathetic lifespan which seemed strange.

My current idea is kind of sod the lifespan, have ordered 10 1.8m 6cm stakes for £42 it's not the stuff of bankruptcy if they don't last forever.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45374
Location: yes
PostPosted: Mon Jun 22, 20 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

scaff poles will outlast both of us by quite a timespan

Mistress Rose



Joined: 21 Jul 2011
Posts: 15539

PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 20 6:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

You could plant a hedge at the bottom and lay it, or get someone else to lay it. Once it has grown, it will be cow proof if layed correctly, and can be kept neat by trimming, or allowed to grow and form a screen. It will tend to bind the soil together too. Suitable species for laying are hawthorn, and hazel. If you want to have a trimmed, rather than layed hedge, then beech is good as it retains its leaves and can get quite dense with time, but would suggest a layable hedge. Don't put too many spikey things in it for wildlife interest, as it tends to attack anyone laying the hedge, and apart from that, it looks as if bramble will colonise anyway.

jema
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 28098
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 20 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

Mistress Rose wrote:
You could plant a hedge at the bottom and lay it, or get someone else to lay it. Once it has grown, it will be cow proof if layed correctly, and can be kept neat by trimming, or allowed to grow and form a screen. It will tend to bind the soil together too. Suitable species for laying are hawthorn, and hazel. If you want to have a trimmed, rather than layed hedge, then beech is good as it retains its leaves and can get quite dense with time, but would suggest a layable hedge. Don't put too many spikey things in it for wildlife interest, as it tends to attack anyone laying the hedge, and apart from that, it looks as if bramble will colonise anyway.


That pretty much was the original plot. You can see hedging in some of the pictures.

The idea was essentially lose the fence and have hedging and terrace down towards the marsh at the deck end following the lie of the land. Don't care what happens about the deck.

I do like building stuff though and as you can see from the thread had let that instinct to do something fancy take over.

The demolition though is confirming the original logic that picking winnable battles further up where the ground allows it is a good thing, fighting nature where the ground is poor is Canute like.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45374
Location: yes
PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 20 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote
    

if a lowest deck is not a big issue stock fence if needed( ) and vegetation to stabilize and form a barrier seems perfect for the perimeter

ps cnut was correct in his own way to point out there are some things that cannot be done but a dock with gates does beat his argument.

i like and have liked the plants thought for that bit for a while.

you have plenty of people space higher up, let nature work for you(with a bit of help and reinforcement, see moos) on the low edge

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